WHAT CAUSES BRAKE DUST?
There are two known alternatives
to asbestos fibres in brake pads. These are steel fibres or
"Aramid" fibres such as DuPont Kevlar or Twaron.
Aramid fibres have a high unit strength and produce a high
quality non-ferrous compound that is superb on high performance
brake pads. EBC use Aramid fibres in their Green pads and
a SMALL AMOUNT of steel fibre in Red, Yellow and Blue.
Dust is caused for two reasons. The first reason is unavoidable
and is a “general use” problem. A small amount
of dust cannot be avoided as the pad wears, in most cases
the dust from EBC Green pads is 1/3 to 1/2 of the amount observed
from original equipment pads. In the case of EBC 6000 series
the dust is less than 1/4 of the amount of original fitted
semi metallic type pads or other aftermarket semi metallic
type pads (those containing steel fibre and carbon particles).
The second and possible reason for dust if this has come on
a sport type vehicle application is that the incorrect compound
has been recommended. For example if the customer was using
Green pads and found excessive dust, he may have needed the
Redstuff grade, which exhibits almost zero dust and is a more
robust pad having slightly longer lifetime. Redstuff is particularly
recommendable on many models of BMW/Audi and muscle cars.
BRAKE FADE EXPLAINED
All pads contain some organic (living) materials. Resins that
bind pad compounds together are organic - petro-chemical products.
As these overheat the resins revert to gas and cause the pads
to “aquaplane” on a gas film, which is called
fade. Some pads only fade once or twice and then settle down
(Green fade or bedding in fade). Other, cheaper pads suffer
from continual dynamic fade, sometimes at surprisingly low
Temperatures between the pad and disc do not normally exceed
700°F even in heavy street use. In race use 900-1200°F
is common on smaller cars and in Championship Cup race temperatures
shoot up to around 1500°F where discs will glow red or
ALWAYS CHOOSE A PAD ADEQUATE FOR YOUR NEEDS. NEVER just choose
a race compound because you think you’re a hot shot.
Many/most race pads need “warm up” and don’t
become effective till 350°F.
NOT ideal for a stoplight situation in urban traffic.
EBC Greenstuff is effective from cold and needs no warm up.
Even so EBC Green feels stronger as you use the brake harder.
We call that progressive braking.
NOISE - Light whistling/squeaking (at walking pace)
This noise usually happens as the vehicle is coming to rest
and is again typical of a pad that is just bedding in or has
been under used. Again the remedy is to allow a few hundred
miles for the pads to properly seat and have 100% contact
surface against the disc. If the problem occurs intermittently,
one good cure is to use the brake severely every day now and
again on a safe secluded low traffic piece of road to “de-glaze”
the surface of the brake pad. Obviously extreme caution must
be used when performing this action.
SCREECHING (a loud squealing noise when applying
the brakes at all times)
The usual reason for this is that the pads have not bedded
in. If this has happened during the early life of fitment
then it is advisable to wait 300 - 500 miles until the pads
are fully bedded in. This noise is also very prevalent when
the pads have been fitted to rotors that have not been turned
and have grooves or scoring. This will also extend the bed
GRAUNCHING (metal on metal noise)
Less usual with EBC’s low metallic brake pads. The customer
needs to check first of all that the brake pads are not worn
out. Brake pads can wear quite quickly especially in situations
where the rotors were in poor condition or the callipers had
seized, so the first safety aspect is for the customer to
evaluate that the pads are not worn out. In spite of the fact
that they may have only just recently fitted them. A system
fault will accelerate wear in some cases to surprisingly short
SHORT PAD LIFE
This can be due to several things. Seized calliper, poor rotor
condition or the incorrect compound. Once the two first points
have been eliminated, if the customer was recommended Green
upgrade to Red.
If he was already using Red and still has a problem call
EBC technical department for further assistance, having the
vehicle make, model and type of use ready. It needs to be
understood here that many customers take their vehicles to
track days, so this question should be asked and of course
our warranty on lifetime does not cover any form of racing,
performance or autocross use on track days. Also it should
be realised that customers have very different performance
requirements of their vehicles, some drive far harder than
TRACK DAY RACING
We only recommend using the Yellowstuff compound for track and road use. Bluestuff is suitable for endurance racing.
No complaints of mileage, during track days, will be entertained under warranty by EBC Brakes.
Warranty is invalid if product is used for racing, trackday experience or any other form of competition. There is absolutely no warranty on any EBC product for race use.
In most cases the Greenstuff pads are applicable to this sort
of sports application.
UNEVEN BRAKING - Vehicle pulls to left or right
This is a very dangerous condition and should be analysed
immediately by the installing mechanic. It can be caused due
to the brake settling down on a poor quality rotor surface
(rotor not turned) and can also be the cause of a pad contaminated
with lubricant. EBC does not recommend the use of any grease
in or around the brake pad, which can severely damage the
friction material and cause loss of brake efficiency, but
unfortunately some installing mechanics still prefer to use
it. If this contaminates the friction surface the pad is ruined
and it has to be completely replaced. Always replace pads
in sets, left and right, across an axle, never replace the
left hand or right hand pads individually. EBC only sell full
sets for this exact reason.
SPONGY BRAKE PEDAL
A soft or spongy pedal can often happen during the early life
of a pad especially on a vehicle where the rotor condition
was poor (not turned). Vehicles should be used for a few miles
whilst gently pressing the brake pedal occasionally in a safe
road condition to encourage the pads to bed in. If the condition
persists return the vehicle to the installing mechanic and
ask for the brakes to be “bled” to change the
brake fluid. Older brake fluids contain a higher water percentage
and can cause a spongy brake.
BRAKE FLUID MAINTENANCE - When to change
The condition of the brake fluid is quite important in a vehicle.
The type of fluid DOT 3 or 4, should be observed from the
cap on the master cylinder on the vehicle and the same exact
grade should always be used for top up or replacement. The
system should be flushed through with new fluid to change
the fluid at least once every two years, according to the
vehicle manufacturers recommendations. Failure to do so will
result in spongy brakes. Spongy brakes in racing will show
up sooner and are a result of the same condition i.e. fluid
condition very poor and should be changed.
Green pads should be used for all standard street vehicles.
Red pads should be used on muscle cars, faster and heavier
Yellowstuff grade should be used for track days.
Bluestuff endurance grade should be used on heaviest and fastest
off highway race use.
SUV’s and light trucks should always be recommended
EBC’s 6000 series - there is no alternative compound
for this vehicle segment.
Rapid Guide Passenger Cars - Green
SUV’s - 6000 series
Trucks - 6000 series
Muscle Cars - Red
Imports (Cars) - Green
SHIMS - WHEN DO I NEED THEM?
Many semi metallic pads (those containing steel fibre) come
fitted from the factory or aftermarket suppliers with rubberised
metal shims on the back to prevent rattling and squealing.
This is because of the type of material they use. At EBC we
very rarely use shims because in 99 cases out of 100 we do
not get noise, due to the non-metallic nature of our pads.
FRICTION LEVELS EXPLAINED
Typical friction levels of original street pads vary from
0,25 up to 0,35 friction factor. EBC Greenstuff has 0,46 friction
and users will notice an immediate improvement in brake in
most cases. Remember friction level µ is only an “indicator”
not a guarantee of brake “torque”. Many independent
tests in Europe however, have shown EBC Greenstuff to be one
of the grippiest compounds on the market today.
Almost all cars come originally fitted with plain
un-drilled or grooved rotors. This is mainly due to manufacturing
costs and the fact that rarely are cars designed for sport
use out of the factory gate. Higher performance cars such
as Porsche and faster BMW’s are more recently coming
fitted with “through drilled” brake rotors. EBC
provide slotted and part drilled sport rotors for many import
cars. The advantages of a slot on the brake rotor is it helps
to prevent pads from glazing and to brake down the surface
gasses which are generated under heavy braking on sport use
i.e. track day, autocross or fast road use. The part drilled
holes also add to the surface de-gassing. Many customers ask
why our holes are only part drilled through the rotor, the
answer is that because all original equipment rotors including
EBC’s are what we call “straight vaned”
in other words, the ventilation slots go directly from the
outside towards the centre of the disc as they are not “scoop
vented” there is absolutely no point in through drilling
the disc. Scoop vented rotors require through drilled holes
so that the air scooped into the centre core of the rotor
can vent out through the holes. If through drilling is done
on standard straight vane rotors it often results in an imbalance
of the rotor, can weaken the structure and promote cracking
of the rotor, that is why we don’t “through drill”